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17Placketsand Pockets

369

chapter

PLACKETS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370Pointed Placket with Facing-in-One . . . . . . . .370Wing Collar Placket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .372Slit Opening with Placket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .374

POCKETS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 375

Pocket Classification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .375Inserted Seam Pocket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .377Jean Pocket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .378Pocket-in-One with the Side Seam . . . . . . . . .379Accordion Pocket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .380Stylized Outside Pocket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .382Lift-Away Pocket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .382Pocket with Hidden Side Seam . . . . . . . . . . . .383

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370 Chapter 17

2 "

A

B

8 "

CD

1 "

1 "

3/4 "

EF

Paper

Figure 1

PLACKETSPlackets are finished slits or faced openings designedon all types of garmentsbodice, sleeve, skirt, dress,jacket, pant, and so forth. Plackets can be of any

length and width, with blunt, pointed, rounded, orstylized ends. Some plackets have buttons and but-tonholes; others do not. When designed for neck-line openings, the placket can end at the neck edgeor be extended beyond the neck and become part of the collar. The measurement can be varied to createdifferent effects.

For shirt plackets, see Chapter 21.

Pointed Placket with Facing-in-One

Design AnalysisThe pointed placket of Design 1 is set into a cutout

section of the bodice. (The collar is not illustrated inthe pattern plot.) Top-stitching finishes the placket.Design 2 is included for practice.

Pattern Plot and ManipulationFigure 1 Fold the paper. Place the center front on fold and trace.

Plan Placket AB placket length (example: 8 inches)BC 1 inchCD 1 inch

Square lines 3/4 inch from B and C. Label E and F. Draw a line from F to the neck, parallel to cen-

ter front. Connect point F with D.

Plan Facing for Placket

Draw the facing 2 inches from shoulder at neck,ending 3/4 inch from E. Connect the facing withE (indicated by broken line).

Trace the placket and facing to underneath side.

Design 1

Design 2

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Figure 2 Unfold andpencil in perforated line (broken line). Place paper underneath pattern and trace the

placket and facing for the right side of garment(shaded area).

Remove paper and pencil in the perforated line.

Figure 3 Repeat for the other side, tracing placket across at

level with point B (shaded area). Note that thepoint of the placket is not included.

Remove the paper and pencil in a perforated line.

Figure 4 Placket for Right Side Fold the paper along placket edge. Square from

the fold at neck, touching center line. (Brokenline indicates original neck.) Trace the placketonly (shaded area). Omit facing section. Unfoldand pencil in a perforated line. (The finished pat-tern shape is shown.)

Center

2 "Paper underneath

E

3/4 "

Figure 2

Center

B

Paper underneath

Figure 3

F o

l dPaper

Figure 4

F ol d

Paper

Figure 5

Figure 5 Placket for Left Side Repeat for the other side.

PLACKETS AND POCKETS 371

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372 Chapter 17

Figures 6, 7 Placket Add seams and label Right-side-up. The shaded

area indicates facing side of the placket.

Figure 8 Bodice Section Add seams, notches, and grainline. Cut from the paper, trimming excess from

placket inset area, and unfold. Cut basic back to complete the design.

Right-side-up

Figure 7

BODICE FRONT

Paper

Figure 8

Wing Collar PlacketDesign AnalysisDesign 1 features an all-in-one placket and collar setinto a cut-out opening in front. The placket is con-nected halfway, ending at the shoulder-neck loca-tion. The seam allowance is indicated because of itsunique feature. Design 2 is included for practice.

Design 1

Right-side-up

Figure 6

Design 2

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C

B

Figure 2

Pattern Plot and ManipulationFigure 1 Trace front pattern on left side of the paper.

AB placket length (example: 10 inches).AC depth of opening (example: 6 inches)

Mark.AE 1 1/2 inches or more.

Draw a curved line from E to F and E to C. Blend.BD 1 1/2 inches, squared from B. Connect a

slightly curved line from D to F. Place paper underneath and trace the placket (B,

D, F, E, C, to B). Remove paper and pencil in aperforated line.

Figure 2 Finish the placket with 1/4-inch seam allowance.

Notch. Cut four pieces, self-faced (placket joinedfrom C to B).

Figure 3 Bodice Fold paper at center front. Add seam allowance

(1/4 inch where the placket is attached). Cutfrom the paper, trimming excess from theplacket insert area.

Cut the basic back to complete the design.

F

E

Paper

C

D B

A

1 1/2 "

Paper

1 1/2 "

Figure 1

BODICE FRONT

Paper

Figure 3

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374 Chapter 17

Slit Opening with Placket

Design 1

Design AnalysisPlacket band of Design 1 is attached to a slit on oneside of the garment, and three spaghetti loops andbuttons are used for closure. Design 2 is for practice.

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1 Trace and cut a full front. Draw an 8-inch parallel line for the slit, 2 inches

out from center line. Draw another line 1/16 inch from the slit line.

(Space is needed for the width of the pencil leadwhen tracing the pattern on the paper or fabric,or when making a marker.) Cut the slit line andcrossnotch end. Label A and B.

Mark for loops. Draw facing 1 1/2 inches wide (indicated by bro-

ken lines). Transfer facing by placing the paper under the

pattern (broken line area). Remove the pattern. Pencil in facing.

Figure 2 Completed FacingsFacing can be separated, as illustrated, or developedas one-piece facing.

Figure 3 Placket Extension Band Draw a line twice the length of the slit (example:

16 inches).

1 1/2 " 1 1/2 "

Slit

C e n

t e r

f r o n

t

A B

Loop placement

Facing

Figure 1

Figure 2

Fold up for facing side

D 1 1/2 "

C

E

Figure 3

A BFACINGS

Draw a parallel line equal to the desired width(example: 1 1/2 inches).

Label C and D and mid-point E. Band is self-faced. To stitch, fold the band at point E, withpoints C and D touching. Stitch across the topand on one side at band. The raw edge of theband stitches to the B side of the slit on the gar-ment. (The band is the underlay to conceal theopening and for button attachment.) The facingis then attached to the garment, concealing allraw edges around the neck and slit.

Draw the grainline.

Design 2

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POCKETSA pocket is a cavity or pouch that has a closed end and is usually sewn into or onto a garment. It can be adecorative feature, a functional feature, or both. Its primary use is as a depository or temporary holding placefor items or hands. A pocket opening should be wide enough for hands and deep enough to keep objects from

falling out. Pockets are designed for all types of garments. Pocket size, shape, and placement should comple-ment the design of the garment.

Pocket ClassificationOutside PocketsPockets such as the patch pocket are attached to theoutside of a garment. This type of pocket can be de-signed in a number of sizes and shapes, with orwithout a flap.

Patch PocketDraw the pocket design on the shirt pattern. Markthe location of the pocket by chalk, or thread for in-dividual garments. For mass-produced garments, in-dustry uses a drill to burn a hole in the fabric. Tocover the damage in the fabric, the punch/circlesymbols are marked 1/8 inch in from the corners of the drawn pocket.

Basic Unlined PocketFigure 1Fold the paper and draft half the pocket. Add seamsof 1/2 inch and 1 1/4 inches at the opening. Cutfrom the paper. Cut in fabric and stitch to the gar-ment. Sewing instruction follows.

Inserted PocketsPockets are inserted into a straight or stylized seam,with the cavity or pouch on the inside of the gar-ment. Inserted pockets can also be stitched to the in-side of a garment, giving the appearance of a patchpocket on the right side of the garment.

Welt PocketsWelt pockets are characterized by a separate strip orflap stitched to the pocket opening, with the pouchfalling to the inside of the garment. The pockets canhave a double welt or single welt, or they can be styl-ized with or without flaps.

Figure 1

1 "

1 "

2 1/2 "

5 "

Paper

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376 Chapter 17

Sewing InstructionFigure 2Fold the hem to the face side of the pocket and stitchthe ends. Turn the seam and stitch the pocket hem.

Setting the PocketFigure 3Fold and press the 1/2-inch seams. Place the pocketon the garment, covering the marks. The pocketshould be parallel with the center front.

1/2 "

1/4 "

Figure 2

Placement mark

Hemfoldedunder andpressed

Figure 3

1 1/2 2 1/2 "

Paper

Fold line

POCKET

1/2 "

1 "Fold line

FLAP

POCKET

1/4 "

1/2 "

Figure 6

FACING

Figure 5

Pocket and Flap in-OneFigure 5Trace pocket on the fold. Options: The pocket flapmay be faced by tracing (shaded area). The pocketcan also be cut twice (self-faced).

Pocket with Separate FlapFigure 6The basic pocket with a separate flap is illustrated.Follow the sewing instructions given in Figures 2, 3,and 4. See the flap instruction on page 381, Figure 8.

Figure 4

Back tack and continue stitching around the pocket,ending with a back tack.

Placement mark Back tack Figure 4

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12 "

4 "

6 1/2 "

Figure 1a

1 3/4 "

6 " E n t r y

Figure 1b

POCKETLINING

F A C I N

G

1 1/2 "

2 "

F a c i n

g

Figure 2a Figure 2b Figure 2c

Inserted Seam PocketThe entry is an angle line in from the side waist. Tocomplete the pant, see Chapter 26, and for the skirt,see Chapter 13.

Entry/Pocket PouchFigures 1a,bTrace the upper part of the pattern and draw thepocket shape (Figure 1a). Trace two copies. Draw the pocket entry on one copy of the pouch

pocket (Figure 1b). Cut from the paper. Trim entry.

Entry FacingFigures 2a,b, c Trace and draw the pocket facing (shaded area,

Figure 2a). Add 1/2-inch seams to the pocket pouch and 1/4

inch at entry. Label. Cut from the paper and trace the facing pattern

(Figures 2b and 2c). Label.

Pocket Backing/FacingFigures 3a,b, c

Draw the facing for the backing (shaded area)(Figure 3a). Add 1/2-inch seams to the backing pocket. Cut pocket from paper and trace the back facing

(Figures 3b and 3c). Label.

POCKETBACKING

FACING

2 "

3 1/4 "


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378 Chapter 17

Jean PocketDesign AnalysisThe pocket can be drafted from the waistline or froma lowered waistline.

The style is but one of a number of pocket vari-

ations. The small inside pocket is an option. Chang-ing the style of the pocket will not affect theinstruction.

The same pocket can be drafted with an ab-domen or a pleat support. Refer to Chapter 26.

Pocket BackingLining PatternFigures 1a,b The side waist is labeled X. Draw the pant pocket indicated by the measure-

ments from point X (Figure 1a). Trace the pocket. Add 1/2-inch seams (Figure 1b).

Pocket BackingFacing PatternFigures 2a,b, c Draw the facing pattern 2 inches up from the lin-

ing (Figure 2a).

Inside Pocket Draw the inside pocket using the measurements

given. (The pocket ends at the facing hemline.) Mark punch/circles 1/8 inch in from each corner. Trace the facing. Add 1/2-inch seams (Figure 2b). Trace the inside pocket. Add 1/2-inch seams

(Figure 2c).

X 5 "

7 "

Figure 1a

POCKET LINING

Figure 1b

X

2 "

2 3/4 "1 "

1 "

Figure 2a

FACING

Figure 2b

INSIDE POCKET

Figure 2c

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X

2 3/4 "

4 "

Trim

PantFigure 3a

POCKET LINING

Figure 3b

F o l d

BACK FRONTS.S. S.S.

1 1/2 "3 "

6 " 12 "

5 "

Figure 1

Pocket EntryFacing PatternFigures 3a,b Draw the shape of the pocket entry using mea-

surements from point X (Figure 3a). Trace the pocket entry. Add 1/2-inch seams and

1/4 inch at entry (Figure 3b).

The pant pattern is trimmed to the entry shape.Add 1/4 inch at entry and 1/2 inch to the remain-ing patterns.

Pocket-in-One with the Side SeamDesign AnalysisThe pocket is drafted from a straight side seam orstyleline on any garment (a flare skirt is illustrated).

Figure 1 Trace the patterns. Draw the front pocket. Fold the paper and trace. Unfold and outline the traced pocket. Mark 1 1/2 and 6 inches down from the waist

(entry space), and 1/8 inch from the fold line. Trace the front pocket to the back pattern. Add 1/2-inch seams and cut from the fabric.

Figure 2Sewing Guide Pin the right side of the fabrics together. Stitch the side seams and pockets together. Stitch down and up from each mark to establish

the pocket entry. Fold the pocket to the front waist and stitch.

Clip

FRONTW.S.

Figure 2

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1 "

1/2 " 1/2 "

B

F

C

B

C

F

Figure 4

F o l d

BCF C

l i p

C l i p

W.S.

R.S.

Figure 6

Figure 4 Add seam allowance. Trim the unneeded part of the zigzag. Cut the pocket and flap in fabric. Interface the

pocket flap.

Stitching GuideFigure 5 Turn the fabric wrong-side-out. Turn hem 1/4 inch and stitch.

Figure 6 Bring C to B together and stitch, ending at F. Clip

and repeat, stitching on the other side. Turn thefabric to the right side.

Figures 7a,b Edge-stitch each pleat. Fold the pleats in place and press together. Place the pocket on the garment and fold the

seam allowance under. Edge-stitch the pocket to

the garment (Figure 7a).To secure the pleats, fold-back the first pleatand stitch the remaining pleats to the garment(Figure 7b).

Figure 8 Pocket Flap Place right sides togetherstitch and turn right-

side-out. Press and top-stitch. Overlock or sergethe raw edge.

Place the pocket flap 1/2 inch above the pocketand stitch across. Angle-stitch at each end tosecure.

Figure 7a Secure the pleats

Figure 7b

Cross stitch

Back stitch

Figure 81/2 "

1/4 "

Hem

Figure 5

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382 Chapter 17

Stylized Outside PocketOutside pockets can be of any design. They arestitched flat on top of the garment.

Figures 1a, b Trace the garment and draw the pocket. Trace the pocket. Draw and trace the facing and

interfacing patterns. Notch 1 inch (X). Add 1/2-inch seams, 1/4 inch at entry.

Stitch facing to pocket. Fold seams and press.Stitch the pocket to the garment and stitch to X.

Lift-Away PocketFigure 1A band is stitched around three sides of the pocket(excluding entry). A buckle is attached to a belt (self or leather). A belt is stitched to garment.

Figure 2Draw pocket width and length, as desired. Allow1 inch for hem at the length end.

Figures 3a, b, c,d Banding length: Equals 3 sides of the pocket. Banding width: 1 inch (or more) (Figure 3a). Buckle/belt: Buckle controls the width and length of the closure (Figure 3b).

Buckle hold secures the buckle (Figure 3c). It isstitched to the belt (Figure 3d).Sewing guide: The top of the belt is stitched to garment.Closure: Velcro (attached to pocket and belt).

5 1/2 "

POCKET6 "

F a c i

n g

2 "

3 "

C e n

t e r

f r o n

t

Paper

X

Figure 1a

Cut 4and 2

interfacing

Facing

X

Figure 1b

Fold1" Hem

Figure 2

Closure: velcro

Figure 1

Buckle

Figure 3b

Bucklehold

1/4 "

Figure 3c

1/2 "

1/4 "

Belt

Figure 3d

Pocket banding1/2 "

1/2 "

Figure 3a

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Pocket with Hidden Side SeamDesign AnalysisThe curve of the side seam is straightened to developthis style of pocket. The extra fullness can be gath-ered or taken up by folded pleats (front and back).

Entry at side seam.

Figure 1 Draw a line up from the outermost curve of the

front hip to waist level. Mark notches 1 inches and 6 inches down from

side waist. Label X (entry). Draw a pocket pouch 1 inch down from X using

the measurements given. Trace two copies of the pocket.

Figures 2a,b, c First copy: Pocket Facing. Add 1/2-inch seams

(Figure 2a). Second copy: Draw and cut a 1-inch panel parallel

line from the pocket (Figure 2b).

Label the remaining pocket Pocket Backing(Figure 2c). Add 1/2-inch seams.

Figure 3 Draw a line up from the outermost curve of the

back hip to waist level. Increase each dart equally to take up the extra

fullness. (Broken line is the original dart.) Tape the 1-inch panel (A) to the side seam of the

back pattern. Add 1/2-inch seams.

Sewing guide: Stitch the pocket backing (B) tothe panel (A). Stitch the facing to the frontpant entry.Pin the front and back side seams together andstitch (back stitch) 1 inch down from the sidewaist.Stitch (back stitch) down from X.Sew the pocket together

5 "

1 "

4 "

X

6 "

1 "3 1/2 "

C

e n

t e r

f r o n

t

Figure 1

POCKETFACING

POCKETBACKING

B

1 "

A

X


A

B

P O C K E T

BA C K I N G

X

Panel attachedto side seam

BACK

Figure 3

017 capitulo 17

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