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    Cost

    aAzahar

    Castelln

    CostaA

    zahar

    Castelln

    Sp

    ain

    Sp

    ain

    I

    EUROPESE GEMEENSCHAP

    Europees Fonds voorRegionale Ontwikkeling

    EUROPEAN COMMUNITY

    European RegionalDevelopment Fund

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    Pescola

    IntroductionAs the Valencian Regions northernmost province, Castellns

    northern reaches and hinterland still show traces of the influenceexercised in the past by Aragon and Catalonia.Its shoreline is one ofsandy beaches interspersed with stretches of sheersided cliffs. Yetwhat attracts visitors to Castelln as much as or even more than thisbroken coastal relief, is the landscape of stone, crags, castles andshrines (santuarios) that lies in the interior, a legacy of medievaltimes.

    With over 450,000 inhabitants, a surface area of 6,679 squarekilometres (approximately 2,578 sq. miles) and a population densityof 67.97 inhabitants/sq. km, there is a very marked imbalancebetween the areas fairly heavily populated coastal strip and its verysparsely populated hinterland. Most of the bigger towns and cities aresituated on the coastal plain. Indeed, in the dry-farming districts there area good number of towns of no more than 100-200 inhabitants, and manyan isolated masa (typical farmhouse) occupied by just a single family.

    Text:Jaime Mills

    Printed by:EGESA, S.A.

    D.L. M. 1321-2007

    Translated by:Michael D. Benedict NIPO: 704-06-261-X

    Published by:

    TurespaaSecretara de Estadode Turismo y Comercio

    Photographs:Turespaa Photographic Archives Printed in Spain

    Ministerio de Industria,Turismo y Comercio

    Graphic Desing:P&L MARN 2nd. Edition

    C O N T E N T S

    Introduction 1Coastal routes 4

    The North Coast 5The South Coast 11

    Inland routesMorella and the Maestrazgo 14The hill country 17The springs 20

    Castelln, capital of the plain 22Leisure & Entertainment 28Useful information 36

    Atlantic

    Ocean

    France

    Ireland

    Madrid

    Paris

    London

    Dublin

    Bay of Biscay

    Mediterranean

    Sea

    Ceuta

    Castellnde la Plana

    Portugal

    Lisbon

    Spain

    UnitedKingdom

    Melilla

    CostaAzahar

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    3

    advent of Romanisation, a forcethat was to shape and structurethis territory through theconstruction of the Via Augusta,the road linking Rome with theCadiz coast. After these lands

    had been under Moorish swayfor hundreds of years, theprocess of reconquest beganin the 13th century under theAragonese King, James I, whoproceeded to incorporate theminto the new Kingdom ofValencia. In the early 18th

    century, the Spanish monarchyimposed a centralist system andabrogated the medieval

    jurisdictional rights (fueros).It was not until 1982, the yearin which the Valencian RegionStatute of Autonomy was passed,that the right of self-governmentwas at last restored.

    2

    Along the shoreline from Vinarsto Almenara, and the jaggednorth-south divide traversing theinterior from Morella to Segorbe,Castelln embraces a geographyof contrasts, attributable to the

    geological diversity of itsmountains and plains, and thenotable differences between thecoast and continental interior.Topographically speaking, theregion sits astride a prolongationof the Iberian Range (SistemaIbrico), at the point where thisextends towards theMediterranean.As a result, Castelln is the secondmost mountainous province inSpain. Looking at the map fromsouth to north, the principalmountain chains run from theEspadn Range, the coastalmountains of the Desierto de las

    Palmas Range and the Irta Rangeto the great inland massif ofPenyagolosa, the provinceshighest peak, and the foothills ofthe mountains surroundingLa Tinena de Benifass andEls Ports. While Castellnsprincipal river is the Mijares,which rises in the Gdar

    Mountain Range of Teruel, it alsoboasts other shorter waterways,such as the Palancia, Monlle,Cervol and Snia Rivers, and aseries of irregular watercourses orramblas, such as the Cervera andLa Viuda.

    Castelln -rugged but nonethelessMediterranean- enjoys anagreeable temperature all yearround, with the highestmountains in the northerndistricts receiving a welcome

    sprinkling of snow in winter. Theareas coastal plain is home to aseries of major towns, which havegiven impetus to dynamicindustrial activity focusingon ceramic and tiles, footwearand food-processing plants,to say nothing of Castellnstraditional agricultural wealth,citrus farming in particular.As with the Valencian Region as awhole, the province is bilingual,with both Spanish and Valencianbeing spoken (Valencian,resembles but is considereddistinct from Cataln).There is good road

    and rail access tothe province.It has no airport atpresent, though thereare plans to build oneat a site just 18 milesfrom Castelln itself.Visitors seldom come bysea, since the regions

    ports are not listed on theregular passenger shippingand ferry schedules. Theareas most important roadsare the E-15 A-7 coastalmotorway, the N-340 nationalroad which also follows thecoast- and the N-232 and N-234 in the interior. Carmelite Convent.

    Desierto de las Palmas(Benicssim)

    HistoricalBackground

    Castellns prehistoric pastis held to be immensely

    important. Evidence of thisperiod are the manyarchaeological sites and theprimitive shelters with rockpaintings that were discoveredover the course of the 20th

    century and have since beengranted UNESCO WorldHeritage status. At a later pointin time, shortly preceding theChristian era, the Iberianpeople, a cultured race with adeveloped art form, occupiedheights and hilltops, until the

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    CoastalRoutes

    Benicssim

    The North CoastTheir relative proximity meansthat the most popular beachesin the Plana Alta (Upper Plain)

    district tend to exert a directinfluence on the capital.For instance, its six kilometresof sandy beach has madeBenicssim a traditional holidayresort. In the background, thering of hills climbing sharplyaway from the citys outlyingsuburbs is a promise of bettersea views to be had from above.Such vantage points can befound in and around theDesierto de las Palmas area andthe Santa gueda Range, withits Pico Bartolo (Mt. Bartolo;2,390 feet). Nowadays, thishaven of spiritual retreat and

    meditation founded by theCarmelites offers visitors thepossibility of exploringinteresting hiking and cycling

    trails. The old distillery that onceproduced Carmelite liqueurfrom the local aromatic plantshas been moved to the towncentre. At the end of the 19th

    and beginning of the 20th

    centuries, a string of holidayvillas -Modernist and Colonial instyle- rose along the Benicssimseafront. Some, including theoldest, the Villa Pilar (1860),survive to this day. The townssingle most valuable heritageand indeed, the landmark ofits Old Quarter, is the Neo-classical-style parish church,which the scholar, FranciscoPrez Bayer, had built in the18th century. Other historicalsights include the San Vicentewatch tower, situated right onthe beach, and the medievalMontorns Castle.

    Leaving the town and headingnorth along the coast road,the route offers some veryspectacular ocean views. On

    The area known for touristpurposes as the Costa Azaharhas a 120-kilometre (74-mile)strip of coastline where visitorscan enjoy both sea andmountain scenery. The name,azahar, is taken from thenumerous orange orchards thatperfume the air with thepervasive smell of orangeblossom in Spring. Lying just offthe Castelln coast is a group of

    islands, the Columbrete IslandsOf volcanic origin, these scenic

    island outcrops have now beendeclared a land and sea NatureReserve, access to which hasbeen restricted to conservethe ecological balance.For those interested in gettingto know the seaboard, there aretwo basic routes.One explores the coastal fringeto the north of the capital,and the other follows thecoast southwards from Castellndown to Almenara.

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    breathed new life into Spanishpainting and sculpture.On returning to the coast, thePrat de Cabanes wetlandscome into view. Formerlypastureland, the area has now

    been converted into a naturereserve that serves as a nestingsite and stopover point forprized species of waterfowl andwaders. The route continuesonwards to the peace and quietof Torreblanca, where the townCalvary marks the site of thefirst primitive settlement. It isfrom the this hillock that thetown slowly grew and spreadtowards the shore, formingthe seaside suburb ofTorrenostra, a gatheringpoint for summer holidaymakersdrawn to the areas sand andshingle beaches.

    The historical Maestrazgo

    area, straddling the northernreaches of Castelln, is fringed bya sunlit shoreline, where toweringmountains plunge and give wayto tranquil beaches. The townsand villages situated along this

    stretch of coast attract the highestpercentage of the provincestourist trade and share a commonhistory with their hinterlandcousins, a history written by theKnights Templar and Knights ofthe Order of Montesa whoadministered these lands inthe Middle Ages under a royalwrit from James II. This type oflandscape begins as from Alcalde Xivert -a town enjoying naturalprotection in the form of the SerradIrta Range- and then extendsalong a wide floodplain thateventually reaches the sea at thetourist resorts of Las Fuentes,

    Alcossebre and Cap i Corb. Still

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    arriving in Oropesa del Mar, it isimmediately obvious that this isyet another town seeking tomeet the local tourist demand,although here the ambience issomewhat more select, with

    comfortable residential estateshaving been built along theseafront. In recent years, thelocal beaches of La Concha andMorro de Gos have experienceda major tourist boom.The enclosed nature of thesmall bay in which the townnestles gives this coastalsite a defensive and strategicdimension, in line with thehistorical value of its Torredel Rey (torre; tower), and thelayout of its ancient Moorishcastle. The Sant Juli and DonaTowers complete the defensiveline on this section of the coast.

    Housed in the Parish Church ofthe Virgen de la Paciencia (OurLady of Patience) are leadingexamples of the tilework made in

    Alcora in the 18th century.The presence of a marina, a seriesof secluded cliffside coves andgood-sized sandy beaches serve tomake Oropesa a pleasant andattractive seaside holiday resort.

    Approximately six kilometresdown the N-340 is a secondaryroad that branches off to theleft and heads inland towardsCabanes. Here a well-knownRoman Arch stands alongside asection of the old Roman road,the Va Augusta, constructed atthe time of the Roman Empireto link Rome and Cadiz. On thissidetrip, the town of Vilafamsaffords the visitoran interesting chance toget a first-hand idea ofcontemporary culture.The Gallery of Modern Art

    (Museo Popular de ArteContemporneo) housed in theBatlle Palace, brings togethermany of the artists that have

    Oropesa del Mar

    Roman Arch. Cabanes

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    Flanking the coast road toBenicarl is Pescolas immensebeach. Many years ago thesesands served as the backdrop forthe galloping steeds seen in theblockbuster movie portraying the

    life and times of El Cid and hislegendary deeds of valour. In thecentre of Benicarl is the Churchof Sant Bertomeu(St. Bartholomews), a Baroqueconstruction of extraordinarybeauty whose stone-workedfaade and barley-sugar

    (salomnica) columns will come assomewhat of a surprise. Its parishmuseum houses interestingexamples of Gothic art. TheChapel of Sant Gregori, situatedon a nearby hill, is where the

    townsfolk congregate on 9th Mayevery year to participate in atraditional romera (pilgrimageouting). The ports importancedates back to the times of Pedroel Ceremonioso, who in 1370granted it the right to marketwine exempt from certain tax

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    resort. The Aragonese, Pedro deLuna, who took the name ofBenedict XIII and styled himselfPapa (Pope) Luna, chose PescolaCastle as a retreat from which tofight for the unity of the Catholic

    Church. The fortress commandsthe highest point of the peninsula.The parade ground is a superbbalcony from which to admire theMediterranean, and the Keep, aperfect platform from which tocontemplate the wide sweep ofthe coast. In spring and summer,this walled enclosure becomes thevenue for a Spanish Comedy FilmFestival and a Festival of Ancientand Baroque Music.

    following the N-340, after pausingto admire the monumental belltower at Alcal de Xivert, and bynow well within the boundariesof the Baix Maestrat (LowerMaestrazgo) district, one arrives at

    the turn-off to Pescola, theleading tourist centre in theProvince of Castelln. The castle,perched on a high outcropoverlooking the sea, conjures upimages of the past, of knightsthat roamed and fortressbattlements that guarded theseMaestrazgo lands in bygone days.Yet this unique heritage gem,encased within the confines of thesmall peninsula that is also hometo the Old Quarter, is only onepart of modern-day Pescola.Outside the town walls, thegenerous overflow of hotels,holiday flats and residential

    estates stands in eloquenttestimony to the good reputationenjoyed by this fashionable beach

    Castle of Pope Luna. HermitsChapel. Pescola

    Church of Sant Bertomeu (St. Bartholomews). Benicarl

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    levies. At present, a good amountof activity centres on the townsfishing fleet. On the verythreshold of Catalonia standsVinars, justly famed for itsdelicious king prawns. The town

    lies in the middle of a plain whichis marked by intense industrialand farming activity, and in whichthe only landmark of any heightis the Puig de la Misericordia, anelevation chosen by the earlyIberians as the site for one oftheir settlements. The ParishChurch of the Assumption(Asuncin), and the Convents ofSant Agust and Sant Francesc arethe towns most prestigiousarchitectural sights. Thegeographer, Madoz, was of theopinion that in the last centuryVinars had earned the right tothe title of the areas principal

    shipbuilder. Holm oaks (encinas)brought here from the hillcountry further inland were hewnand fashioned into solid ocean-going vessels. Some time ago, theBay of Biscays dwindling supplyof sardines caused canning

    companies from the north ofSpain to relocate in Vinars, amove that led to an interestingbond being forged between thefishing traditions of the Northand the Mediterranean. The

    carnival celebrations held in thesecond fortnight in February areuniversally popular and givenprominent billing in the Provincesfestive calendar. It is here, in thisborder town lying just south ofTarragona, that the north coastroute comes to an end.

    The South CoastNot only is the Plana Baixa (LowerPlain) district a citrus fruitparadise, it is also the seat of aneconomic empire built on thebasis of a vigorous ceramic andtile industry that has been

    acclaimed both at home andabroad. The town of Burriana isfamed as the home of theCastelln orange. A visit to theMuseo de la Naranja (OrangeMuseum) will give visitors thechance to learn about the system

    Alcossebre beach

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    of cultivation, trade, transportand industrialisation peculiar tocitrus farming. Adjoining theTown Hall, the Parish Church ofthe Saviour (Salvador) retains theduality of a traditional

    Romanesque-style apse coupledwith the generalised Gothic stylecharacteristic of the structure as awhole.From Burriana, take the roadthat departs from the southernside of the town and make forNules. Here, in the latter partof the 19th century, the townwalls were pulled down.Nevertheless, this evocation ofa fortified citadel can still beenjoyed today in the boroughof Mascarell, situated onekilometre to the north-east ofNules. The medieval quarterthat James I ordered built in

    Mascarell has survived intact.

    Among the sights to be seen inNules, special mention shouldbe made of the Baroque-styleSoledad Chapel, raised inhonour of the towns patronsaint. The arcaded main square

    (Plaza Mayor) features amodern church where anArchpriest officiates. A lovelyBotanical Garden graces thetown centre. Nules has aquite stretch of beach, withbungalows and housesstrung out along the strand.Six kilometres down the CS-225,on the lower flanks of the SierraEspadn Range, liesLa Vall dUix, a town whose lifehas largely been dictated by theshoe industry. In the 17th

    century, the existence of twodistinct urban areas led to thePlaza del Angel being laid out in

    the upper town, and the Plaza

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    de los Chorros (jets orfountains), in the lower town(poble de baix). Just twokilometres away, on the Sonejaroad, is a natural phenomenonof great interest, the Cuevas deSan Jos (St Josephs Caverns),where an underground river

    features one section that isnavigable and another that canbe explored on foot.

    This towns natural outlet to thesea is in Moncfa, whoseseafront promenade allows for along stroll along the pebbledbeach, and if desired, thepossibility of continuing all theway to Chilches, another coastalvillage with excellent sandy

    beaches

    St. Josephs Cavern (Sant Josep).La Vall dUix

    Mansion. Burriana

    Beach. Alcossebre

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    A few kilometres from the coast,

    the interior regions of the Provinceof Castelln possess rich naturalresources, as well as an artistic andcultural heritage of the first order.These are landsof heraldry andescutcheons, domains defended bydefiant battlements and watchedover by chapels and monasteries.The low population density that so

    characterises these inland routesenhances the inherent charm ofthe itineraries suggested below,i.e., the fortress city of Morella, Mt.Penyagolosa, the Mijares riversideand environs, nature and wildlifein the Sierra Espadn Range, andthe River Palancia with its fresh-

    water springs.Morella andthe Maestrazgo

    Sant Mateu, capital of the BaixMaestrat district, rose and

    grew on the plain, encircled

    by gnarled olive and other treesassociated with Mediterraneanculture.Under the three-hundred-yearmedieval hegemony exercisedby the Knights of the Orderof Montesa, the town was abustling handicrafts, livestockand market centre, exporting

    wool that was destined for theItalian looms in Florence. Themain square with its arcades andFuente del ngel(AngelFountain) off to one side, is thestarting point, not only of anytour of the town, but also ofmany of the main streets with

    their noble houses and mansions.The church, accorded Archprieststatus, echoes the Romanesque-Gothic duality depicted on itstwo doors.The lofty buttresses supportingthe central nave and the imposing

    Inland Routes hexagonal tower are the firstthings that catch the eye as oneapproaches the town.Taking the N-232, and beforebeginning the climb to Morella

    via the Querol Pass, one comesacross the Santuario de la Virgende Vallivana, (Shrine of the Virginof Vallivana), the towns patronsaint. In a tradition harking backto 1673, every six years the peopleof Morella (morellanos) walk 22kilometres (13 miles) to bear theimage of the Virgin Mary to the

    town, as a token of gratitude forher having saved them from theplague. By the roadside standnumerous tiny chapels, wherepilgrims stop to utter a prayer orsupplication on their long six-yearly march, a prelude to theimpressive festivities that follow.

    The walled town of Morella,silhouetted haughtily on itshilltop, provides the travellerwith a truly monumental sight.It is, without a doubt, the mostinteresting Gothic town in theentire Valencian Region. One

    and a half miles of town wall,pierced by six gates, in which anumber of specialised museumshave been created, makeMorellas invulnerability thestuff of legend. The Gothic

    Basilica of Santa Mara(St. Marys) with its exceptionalchoirstalls is simply a must, asare the Convent of San Francisco(St. Francis), also Gothic, and theCastle complex. Similarly, theTown Hall and old jail, a strollthrough the towns terraced alleysand streets, the Blasco de Alagn

    arcades, a round tour of themountain along the Paseo de laAlameda, and a visit to see theexterior of the medieval SantaLlcia aqueduct are all essentialfor anyone wishing to get toknow this town of just under3,000 inhabitants.

    Those wishing to get a betteridea of the Maestrazgo arerecommended to visit othertowns as well. A good examplewould be Villafranca del Cid,or Vilafranca, near the Teruel

    Morella

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    area, which took its cottagetextile industry and transformedit into a modern lingerie andknitwear sector. Within a shortdistance of this active town are:Ares del Maestre, ensconced inan incredible setting, expresslychosen by the Knights ofMontesa to command thesurrounding mountains andtableland; the health spas ofBenassal and Cat, known forthe medicinal properties of theirmineral waters; Culla, with itswell-preserved medievalquarter; and, lower down, thevillage of Tirig, with one of the

    most important networks ofrock paintings along theMediterranean coast. Knowncollectively as La Valltorta, thearea uncovered comprises 21different shelters containingLevantstyle rock paintings(in Spain the Valencia/Alicantearea is termed the Levant

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    of Aranda founded a factory inhis domain and called it La MuyNoble and Artstica Cermica de

    Alcora. From 1727 onwards, thisfirm produced a refined range ofporcelain and china which

    enjoyed great success inEuropean Court circles.Taking the CV-190 district road,one gets to Lucena del Cid, orLlucena, a town located on arocky promontory betweenthe Pedreera river and ravine.The main square features arcadeswith widely spaced arches, ideal

    for holding the weekly open-airmarket, at which farmers fromthe surrounding masastraditionally used to meet onSundays. To one side of thesquare, the Churchof Our Lady of the Assumption(Nuestra Seora de la Asuncin)houses a crypt that is turned intoan evocative stage setting forEaster Week tableaux depictingthe recumbent Christ.

    On the last Friday in April,twelve townsmen and a guideset out on foot from the nearbytown of

    Les Useres. Dressed inblack from head totoe, complete

    region) and has been declared aUNESCO World Heritage Site.

    The hillcountryLife in the LAlcalaten district ispervaded at every turn by thepowerful geographical presenceof the Penyagolosa massif(a name derived from its localreputation as a pea colosal orcollosal crag). En route lies thetown of Alcora, home andbirthplace of the tile industry.In the 18th century, the Count

    Villafranca del Cid

    Panoramic view. Ares del Maestre

    with hat, rosary and crook, and inutter silence broken only by thestrains of psalms and hymns, theycomplete a 30-kilometrepilgrimage to the Shrine of SantJoan de Penyagolosa

    (St. John of Penyagolosa). Herethey spend the night and whenday dawns, retrace their steps.One week later, the people ofLucena del Cid go on another,altogether more social romerato the hermitage site andChapel of Sant Miquel de lesTorrocelles (St. Michaels). These

    are just some of the traditionsthat are kept alive in theseinland parts of Castelln.

    The town closest to the massif isVistabella del Maestrazgo, whichalso marks the start of the pathleading to the hermitage site andsummit. The Sant Joan dePenyagolosa complex datesback to the Gothic period,

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    with its arcades, the Sant Pere(St. Peters) Gate, the Church ofLa Sangre (Blood) founded bythe Knights Templar in the 13th

    century and a series of smallerchapels distributed throughout

    the towns various quarters.

    Keeping to the same road, theCV-20, the River Mijares soonstarts to reveal its precipices andcanyons, geographicalphenomena which inMontanejos, the main town andgenuine focal point in the

    locality, assume impressivemonumental proportions. It isfor this reason that the areais a favourite among climbersseeking the challenge of aravine rock face. Summerholidaymakers come toMontanejos to take the watersand go for a stroll in the hills.The town has range of hotelaccommodation on offer, wideenough to cater to spa-goersfrequenting the Fuente de losBaos at the HydrotherapyCentre, and to the hikers andmountaineers who rope upto tackle the Congosto de

    Chillapjaros and MaimonaGorges (gargantas).

    The Sierra Espadn NatureReserve, situated a little furthersouth, between the districts ofthe Upper (Alto) Mijares andPalancia River Valley, is anotherinland area well worth a visit. Its

    broken topography is home to

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    affords direct experience of thesharp contrasts thatexist between coast andmountainside in Castelln.Vila-real, the provinces secondlargest town, was founded by

    James I and takes pride in itsname (Vila-real; literally, royaltown). Some picturesque Gothicarches in the main square dateback to the towns foundation. Inanother corner of this samesquare is the old Hostal del Rey(Kings Hostelry), a building thatwas originally donated by Pedro

    el Ceremonioso in the 14thcentury and has since undergonenumerous transformations. TheChurch of Sant Jaume (St. James,again under the aegis of anArchpriest) and the Churchand burial place of St. PascualBailn are other sights of interestin the town.Taking the CV-20, the routeheads towards the firstmountains that are visiblefrom the coastal flats. Onda, apottery town of renown, nowemerges. Prominent in theforeground is the fabled Castleof the 300 Turrets, ringed by the

    oldest part of the town, whichhas been declared an historic-artistic ensemble and point ofcultural interest, since itfaithfully represents thestandard Moorish layout thatserved as a template forValencian towns for so manycenturies. Musts on any tour

    of Onda include Almudn Square

    when the monastery wasoriginally opened. Housed in theBaroque-style church is the heavystandard belonging to thereligious brotherhood (cofrada)founded in 1653. It is three metres(just under 10 ft.) high, thoughpopular tradition has it that itonce measured six metres (nearly20 ft.). The cells are now austererooms that serve as lodgings forhikers and passing visitors. Theclimb to the top ofMt. Penyagolosa, which ascendsto a height of 1,813 metres (5,900ft.) above sea level, calls for a

    two-hour hike at a steady pace. Itis the second-highest point in theValencian Region.

    Further south, the River Mijarescarves out an attractive natureitinerary for travellers in searchof invigorating waters. Thisroute starts at a spot near the

    sea, in the town of Vila-real, and

    Vila-real

    Mijares River Canyon. Montanejos

    secluded valleys, where some ofthe Mediterranean Basins best-preserved grovesof cork oaks survive in thecompany of pristine springs.Eslida and An are the most

    attractive towns hereabouts.

    The SpringsThe Alto Palancia (UpperPalancia) district is boundedby the foothills of the Iberian,Espadn and Espina Ranges tothe north, and the Calderona

    and Javalambre Ranges to thesouth. It forms the naturalpassage between the Aragonplateau and the Valencianseaboard. Segorbe, the districtcentre, lies on the N-234.The very name of the mainsquare belonging to the newpart of the town, the Plaza

    Agua Limpia (limpid or cleanwater), is in itself symbolic ofthe close relationship that the

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    vestiges of the old town wall- theaqueduct arches and themuseums.

    Three kilometres from Segorbe isthe town of Altura, site of the

    ruins of the Cartuja de la Vall deCrist, a monastery founded by theCrown of Aragon. Restorationwork is making it possible, in part,to recover the former splendourof the archaeological site. Altura isalso home to another popularspiritual landmark, the Shrine ofthe Holy Cave (Cueva Santa).

    Indeed, the image, situated in acave 20 metres(65 ft.) below ground level,represents the patron saint of allSpanish potholers.Navajas is a traditional summerholiday resort. An elm planted inthe main square in 1636 by the

    justicia, or governor and keeper ofthe peace, Roque Pastor,symbolises three hundred and fiftyyears of independent municipalexistence. Numerous springs,brooks and cascades dot thecourse of the River Palancia. Oneof these, known as the Salto de laNovia (Brides Falls), becomes a

    bewitching setting for concerts onsummer nights. Further on, Jrica,with its Mudejar-style tower(Mudjarbeing the termdescribing Moslem work executedunder Christian rule), is a foretaste

    of the first examples of Mudejarart that were to spreadthroughout Aragon. This itinerarydraws to a close inthe town of Viver, a prizedholiday destination thanks

    to the fifty or so natural fountains,some medicinal,that await the visitor.

    area, with its peaceful andsoothing atmosphere, are sevensmall chapels. The Cathedral ishome to two cultural treasures,namely, the Chapter Hall galleryalong which the portraits of theSegorbe bishops are hung andthe so-called Compromise ofCaspe Codex in the archives.Outside the town proper, theclue to Segorbes origins are to

    be found in the hilltop ruins ofthe Fuerte de la Estrella(Star Castle). Other points to seeare the Botx and Prison Towers -

    Salto de la Novia (Brides Falls). Navajas

    Segorbe

    sites along this route havewith water. Fronting onto thissquare is the Town Hall, housedin the former Medinaceli DucalPalace, built in the 16th century.St Marys Cathedral (SantaMara), originally Gothic in style,underwent a thoroughtransformation in the 18th

    century, which left it with itspresent Neo-classical look.

    Through the main door lies theentrance to the cloister, whichboasts an interesting uppergallery. Leading off from this

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    interesting collection of paintings

    by the citys most prominentartists, such as Porcar, Agrasot,Domnech, Viciano, Benlliure andthe like. This square has a furtherornamental feature: acontemporary sculpture by theValencian, Manuel Boix,popularised in recent years underthe name, El Narcs (Narcissus). Itrepresents a hand picking up aball, while being reflected in apool, and is a tribute to thetraditional local sport ofpelotavalenciana.

    Crossing the nearby Avenida delRey Jaime brings one to the citys

    main area of greenery, Ribalta

    22

    Castelln is a city closely tied to

    the traditional farming world thatsprang up early in the 20th

    century, in the wake of theeconomic euphoria triggered bythe profits to be made fromfarming and exporting citrus fruit.Decades later, Castelln would stillcontinue to expand as a result ofits fast developing ceramics and

    petrochemical sectors. Now,however, it finds itself at acrossroads, faced with theprospect of in-depthretrenchment and restructuring.Over 25% of the provinces entirepopulation live in this one city.

    A visit to Castelln shoulddoubtless begin in the PlazaMayor, a pedestrian precinctpresided over by the El Fadr (1)bell tower (el fadr; single orloner), so dubbed because,

    despite forming part of the

    Cathedral Church complex, it wasbuilt as a separate entity. Thiseight-sided, Tuscan-style, 190-foottower is the citys landmark, itsbells tolling the hours andheralding eventsof great importance. Normallyclosed to the public, it is onlyvisited on the occasion of the

    March festivities held in honourofthe citys patron saint, MaryMagdalene. The Cathedral Churchof Santa Mara (St. Marys) (2) hasbeen reconstructed in Gothic style,the reason being that, apart fromthe main and two of the sidedoors, the whole building wasrazed to the ground during theSpanish Civil War. Displayed insideare a number of anonymouscanvases, a painting attributed toRibalta, a carved image of theVirgin Mary (la Pursima) by JosEsteve and a fine collection ofgold- and silverwork.

    Opposite the church complexstands the Ayuntamiento(City Hall) (3), constructed in the18th century in the Tuscan styleand graced with a series of eye-catching arcades that provide theperfect place to meet and chat. Itis by no means extremely large,yet its halls and passageways have

    enough space to exhibit an

    Castelln, Capital of the Plain City Map City Map ofCastelln1 El Fadri2 Cathedral Church of Santa

    Mara (St. Marys)3 City Hall

    4 Ribalta Park5 Shrine of the Virgin of Lled6 Chapel of La Magdalena

    (Mary Magdalene)7 Pinar Park8 Planetarium9 PrincipalTheatre

    10 Modern Art Gallery11 Fine Arts Museum

    Symbols used

    Tourist Information OfficeHospitalCar park

    Railway StationBus & Coach Station

    Cathedral Church of Santa Mara (St. Marys)

    City Hall

    Ribalta Park

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    2726

    Park (4), which is flanked byattractive examples of Modernistbuildings as well as the railwaystation. It is in this part of the citythat Castelln has undergone itsmost radical face-lift, with therailway lines being re-laid belowground, in order to prevent thepresent layout from beingpartitioned by a series of levelcrossings. In the park, a series ofpaths trace a geometrical

    pattern and finally converge atthe centre, with its statue of theartist, Ribalta. Here too, abandstand, pond, flowers andobelisk commemorating theCarlist Wars mark out an area of

    collective memory, shaded bya number of impressively agedtrees. Along with the Plaza deIndependencia and Plaza deTetun, the park was officiallydeclared of artistic interestin 1981.

    From the Plaza de Mara

    Agustina, take the Avenida delLidn to get to the Santuario dela Virgen de Lled (Shrine of theVirgin of Lled) (5), patron saintof Castelln. According totradition, in 1366 the VirginMary appeared to a shepherd ata point some two kilometresoutside the town. The shrinesinterior provides the perfectatmosphere for quietintrospection, and speakseloquently of the local fervoursurrounding the figure of theVirgin. A tile mosaic in one ofthe aisles describes the differentlocal chapels that plot the route

    of an old Roman road known asEl Camins.

    Some distance away, on theopposite side of the national roadand motorway, is anotherreligious site. This is theChapel of La Magdalena(Mary Magdalene) (6), which

    sits atop a hill marking the spot

    Monument to King James

    the Espai dArt Contemporani(Gallery of Modern Art) (10)inaugurated as a venue foravant-garde international artexhibitions. Also projected arethe construction of a new

    Concert Hall, capable ofdoubling as a ConventionCentre, and there-opening of the Museo deBellas Artes (Fine Arts Museum)(11) in a space that has beenremodelled to do justice to thefine classical paintings stored inits permanent collection.

    where Castelln was first settled.In March, a popular romera takesplace here to commemorate thesettlers decision to moved fromthis hillside to the new townon the plain. Visible behind

    the chapel are the survivingremains of the Moorish castle.Castelln feels a specialattachment to the sea, to whichone gets via a broad avenue.Pinar Park (7), the Planetarium (8),the long seafront promenade, thePlaza del Mar a new leisure areafacing the marina- the good-sized

    harbour facilities,the towns beaches and newresidential estates, all providevisitors with the chance ofenjoying wide open spaces cooledby refreshing sea breezes.

    The citys cultural future is in theprocess of becoming a reality,thanks to an ambitious schemewhich has seen the TeatroPrincipal (Theatre) (9) salvaged,refurbished and refitted with astructure typical of the exquisitetheatres of the 19th century, and

    Shrine of the Virgin of Lled

    Plaza del Teatro

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    29

    modern facilities and offers privateclasses for those wishing to perfecttheir game. The same service isprovided by the Panormica Golf

    Club, in San Jorge, just a littlefurther to the north.

    For enthusiasts of aerial sports,such as hang-gliding andparachuting, there is theAeroclub de Castellnbased at Grau de Castelln, onthe capitals seafront.

    CultureSummer is the ideal time of theyear to enjoy open-air culturalevents. In August, the Castle of

    Pope Luna in Pescola comesalive with attractive recitalsforming part of the Ancient andBaroque Music Festival,as well as a series of plays andstage productions. Some weeksprior to this, in June, Pescolaplays host to the InternationalComedy Film Festival.

    In another seaside town,Benicssim, two music datesmight just be suggested. InAugust, the most radicallyalternative and non-commercialpop groups both Spanish and

    foreign- gather in this beachresort over a period of severaldays in a real celebration ofrhythm and sound. Within thespace of a few years, theInternational Indyrock Festival(Festival Internacional deBencassim -FIB) has managed towork its way into the select

    group of summer festivals thatare a firm favourite with youngaudiences. The other music dateis in September. This, theFrancisco Trrega InternationalGuitar Competition, is a majorevent drawing contestants fromall around the world.

    The end of summer is the timechosen by Vila-real to offer aninternational festival designed topresent traditional folk dances,whilst a few months earlier,

    28

    SportsScattered along the length ofthe Province of Castellnsshoreline, seven marinas, as wellas port and nautical facilities ofall kinds, offer visitors thepossibility of taking full

    advantage of the sea, whetheras a Mecca for watersports ormerely as an immense scenicarena to spend time in aleisurely and enjoyable way. Themarinas are based in the townsof Vinars, Benicarl, Pescola,Alcossebre, Oropesa del Mar,Castelln and Burriana.In many instances, they sharefacilities with fishing harbours,where the daily docksideauction, with its competing bidsand freshly caught fish, providesa true spectacle.

    The combination of suchan infrastructure and thecomplementary facilities availableto beachgoers on

    a good number of beaches,especially those entitled tofly the European Blue Flag(the official guarantee ofenvironmental quality), meansone thing, namely, that onthe Castelln coast, sailing,windsurfing, jet skiing, fishing,water-skiing, scuba diving,rowing, as well as competitionsand regattas, are all well withinthe reach of travellers comingto enjoy this part of the world.

    The good weather and availabilityof suitable facilities make theCosta Azahar an attractive

    destination for all sports lovers.Golfers can choose from any ofthree courses along the coast. TheCosta de Azahar Golf Club islocated in the green zone ofCastellons port area andhas a team of instructors geared toteaching learners. TheMediterrneo Country Club (Club

    de Campo), in Borriol, also has

    Golf

    Aquarama aquapark. Benicssim

    Marina. Benicarl

    Leisure&entertainment

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    31

    pilgrimages, inspired by a religiousoutlook on life, and festivecelebrations that are a genuineexplosion of vitality, fun and

    gaiety. The first event in the yeartakes place in mid-January, withthe Feast of San Antonio Abad (St.Anthony Abbot), the so-calledSantanton, which involves thelighting of bonfires, troupesprancing and masquerading asdemons, and street enactments ofand about the saints life, etc.The most spectacular bonfires areto be found in Forcall, VilanovadAlcolea, Borriol and Todolella,though it must be said that almostall the inland towns celebrate theirown fiesta during this period.

    The most popular celebration is

    held in Castelln itself, as from thethird Saturday in Lent. These arethe fiestas in honour of MaryMagdalene, marking the cityssecond foundation, when it wasmoved to the plain from itsoriginal location on Magdalenahill, site of the Chapel of the samename to which the townsfolk

    make their pilgrimage. The

    romera de les Canyes (canyes:cane rods adorned with greenribbon), a pilgrimage to thehermitage of St. Mary Magdalene,and the procession of les Gaiates(richly garlanded and illuminated

    floats) revive legends and mythsthat have come to form anintegral part of the localimagination. Groups of fiesta-lovers (colles) gather and draw upspecial programmes to make thefiesta bigger and better every year.

    TheFallas (from the Latin facula

    or fax, meaning torch), a typicalcelebration found throughout theValencian Region, which consistsof constructing huge cardboardtableaux and setting these alighton the night of 19th March (St.Josephs Day), has its followers inCastelln. In this regard, specialmention must be made of thetowns of La Vall dUix, Benicarland Burriana, which at this time ofyear are a riot of explodingcrackers and fireworks. However,the pilgrimage season continuesall the while. On the last Fridayin April, twelve pilgrims and a

    30

    in May, the entire town becomesthe setting for street theatre.

    Other leisure time opportunities,particularly for children, are to befound at the Castelln

    Planetarium opened in 1991near Pinar beach, withpermanent exhibitions and dailyshows projected onto theartificial night sky in the dome.A very different scenario is thewater extravaganza to beenjoyed at the Aquaramaaquapark in the Benicssim

    area, or the 40-minute boat tripalong the subterraneanwaterways ofSt. JosephsCaverns (Cuevas de Sant Josep);at La Vall dUix. The Torre delRey (Kings Tower) in Oropesa isyet another of the CostaAzahars many attractions.

    NightlifeFor most part of the yearCastelln nightlife tends to centreon fashionable clubs and barswhere people meet, chat and

    Planetarium. Castelln

    Pescola La Santanton. Forcall

    listen to music over a drink. Butwith the arrival of the goodweather, and the summer monthsin particular, the scene moves to

    the seaside, to the discothquesand pubs situated on theBenicssim and Burrianabeachfronts and Castellndockside. One of the liveliest areasin Benicssim is Las Villas, a stretchof coast lined by some of theloveliest and oldest of the townssummer houses, a few of whichhave now been converted intonight spots. Along the beaches,both in Castelln andin the neighbouring towns,chiringuitos tend to spring up;these are temporary side-walk orbeach bars where one can sit outand enjoy a drink in the open air.

    Discothques and music venues fillto overflowing with crowds ofyoung pleasure-seekers readyto dance the night away.

    FiestasCastellns fiesta calendar is anintriguing balance between

    traditional romera-style

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    33

    been the main source of skilledpotters for hundreds of years.The textile tradition isparticularly strong in Morella,where the local looms serveto revive a style of weaving

    reminiscent of a time when thissingular craft was at thepinnacle of its splendour. Othertowns, especially those situatedin the Palancia Valley, turncarpentry and woodwork intoa genuine art form. In addition,the wickerwork of Benassaland the esparto grasssern- andcapazo-type baskets ofCastellnovo make it possiblefor the traveller to acquiretraditional items made withthe wisdom of old.

    In another very different sphere-that of farming and farm

    produce- drivers on some routesshould keep an eye out for

    roadside stalls selling locally-grown citrus fruit, as well as thetempting prospect of the home-made honey and typical localsweetmeats and pastries on saleat traditional shops.

    Local CuisineCastellns twin nature is reflectedin the two different kinds ofmenus to be found in theprovinces cuisine, dependingupon whether one is on the coastor inland. The days catch provides

    seaside towns with infinitepossibilities. In Vinars, red mullet(salmonetes), Norway lobster(cigalas), shrimp (gambas)andking prawns (langostinos) are themain attractions among themouthwatering range of foodson offer, with pride of placegoing to mixed seafood platters -whether boiled or fried(mariscada), stewed (zarzuelade pescado) or grilled (parrillada)-charcoal-grilled sardines, and anendless variety of fish andseafood dishes.

    Rice dishes, particularlypaella, in

    its traditional meat or mixedchicken-and-shellfish versions,

    32

    guide leave the small town of LesUseres and make for theMonastery of Sant Joan dePenyagolosa, there to do penanceand return the following day aftertrudging many a mile in a silence

    broken only by hymn singing.Some weeks later, in Cat, at fourin the morning on the firstSaturday in May, ancient religiousairs are sung, callingon the townsfolk to make thepilgrimage to Sant Pere deCastellfort (St.Peters), clothed inflowing black capes. During the

    course of the year, well-attendedromeras of this nature departfrom over fifty towns and villagesto churches and chapels linked totheir religious past. The Morellaromera to the Virgin of Vallivana,normally held on the first Saturdayin May, changes every six years (elSexeni), when, during the secondfortnight in August, the Virgin isborne aloft to Morella and thetowns streets and buildingfrontages are bedecked withthousands of rainbow-colouredstreamers.The year preceding the Sexeni

    is marked by the holding oflAnnunci, a splendid occasionin its own right, when theforthcoming six-yearly fiesta isformally announced. On the lastSunday in April, another important

    pilgrimage takes place, this timefrom Altura to the Virgin of theHoly Cave (Cueva Santa). Curiously,this same mountainside churchreceives the townsfolk of Jrica inSeptember and those of Segorbein October. January too has itsromeras, e.g., on 20th January thepeople of Vinars take the relic of

    St. Sebastian from the parishchurch to the chapel crowning thesummit of El Puig.

    There is hardly any town orvillage in the province that doesnot celebrate its local fiesta withbullfights, dances, processionsand a chanceto sample the best localspecialities.

    Shoppingand Handicrafts

    Without doubt, ceramic and

    cloth handicrafts are the twoactivities that enjoy the longesttradition in the towns andvillages of Castelln. LAlcora,Traiguera, Onda, Ribesalbes,La Vall dUix and Segorbe have

    Paella

    Rush figures

    Segorbe pottery

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    35

    are other possible entres, andfor dessert, there are sweetcherries (cerezas), loquats(nsperos) or persimmon(caquis), which grow in the leeof the hillsides, protected from

    the wind and biting cold.

    The Mediterranean market-garden sector in the Province ofCastelln also producesexceptional fruit (e.g., the localvarieties of citrus that havebecome famous around theworld) and vegetables,

    the Benicarl artichoke(alcachofa) in particular.

    AccomodationRanked by quality, hotelaccommodation in the Castellnarea ranges from medium tomedium-high,

    Benicarl Parador

    Benicssim

    Oranges

    is another must. Otherrice-based variations are alsopossible. For instance, there isarroz a banda (rice cooked in the

    water used for the fish, butserved as a separate dish),el caldoso, al horno (oven-baked),con verduras (with vegetables)and the like.Typical in Castellnsfestive cuisine are the coques(pizza-style bases), generallyopen, with a filling of tomatoes,vegetables, onions, etc.

    As the coastal geographygradually gives way to themountainous interior, local meatand farm produce begin to assume

    with over 14,000 beds available.The greatest singleconcentration of guestaccommodation is to befound in Pescola, followedby Benicssim and Castelln

    itself. For those who prefercamping, camp sites haveplace for over 25,000.Spread throughout the provinceare some 6,700 holiday flats,with a capacity to sleep 35,000.In the interior, Castelln also hasa sizeable range of ruralaccommodation, as is evident

    from the more than onehundred hotels, hostels andcountry cottages on offer.In addition, there is a TouristParador (state-run hotel)in Benicarl.

    an ever more marked presence. Inthe Maestrazgo, charcoal grilledmeat, such as rabbit (conejo) andpartridge (perdiz), cured ham and

    jerky (cecina), home-made cheeses,preceded by starters such assopa

    morellana andsopa forcallana, willsatisfy the travellers hunger. Afurther staple of the inland cuisineare the so-called ollas,a vegetable (mainly greens andlegumes) and meat casserole.Among the desserts, fulladvantage is taken of the qualityof the local cattle and orchards

    to prepare cuajada (rennetpudding), flan de almendras(cream caramel with almonds)and requesn (cottage-stylecheese) with honey, along with themany varieties of sweetmeats andpastries, a blend of Moorishheritage and Christian traditions.

    Further south, the excellentquality of the spring watermakes the district olla adelicious and exquisite dish.Roast lamb and rabbit in thyme

    TOURIST PARADORS

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    USEFUL INFORMATION

    TRANSPORT

    USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS

    International Dialling Code:z34Tourist InformationTurespaawww.spain.es

    Costa Azahar Provincial TouristBoard z964 35 98 83www.comunidad-valenciana.comwww.castellon-costaazahar.comTourist Info Castellnz964 35 86 88Castelln Municipal TouristInformation Officez964 06 93 33

    Tourist Info Alcossebrez964 41 22 05

    Benicssim Municipal TouristInformation Officez964 30 01 02Benicarl Tourist Infoz964 47 31 80Burriana Tourist Infoz964 57 07 53

    Grao de Castelln Tourist Infoz902 203 130Morella Tourist Infoz964 17 30 32Moncfa Tourist Infoz964 58 85 57

    Montanejos Tourist Infoz964 13 11 53Navajas Tourist Infoz964 71 39 13Oropesa Tourist Infoz964 31 22 41

    Beach officez964 31 23 20Pescola Tourist Infoz964 48 02 08Sant Mateu Tourist Infoz964 41 66 58

    Segorbe Tourist Infoz964 71 32 54Torreblanca Municipal TouristInformation Officez964 42 12 12Vilafranca del Cid Tourist Infoz964 44 14 32

    Vinars Tourist Infoz964 45 33 34Viver Municipal TouristInformation Officez964 14 10 06

    Renfe (Spanish Rail)z902 24 02 02International informationz 902 242 402

    Traffic: Road & Highwayinformation z900 12 35 05www.dgt.es

    Emergencies z112

    Medical Emergenciesz

    061Civil Guard z 062National Police z 091

    Municipal Police z 092

    Public Information servicez

    010Post Office z 902 197 197www.correos.es

    Canada. TorontoTourist Office of Spain2 Bloor Street West Suite 3402TORONTO, Ontario M4W 3E2z 1416/ 961 31 31) 1416/ 961 19 92www.tourspain.toronto.on.cae-mail: [email protected]. TokyoTourist Office of SpainDaini Toranomon Denki Bldg.6F3-1-10 Toranomon Minato-Ku.TOKYO-105z 813/ 34 32 61 42

    ) 813/ 34 32 61 44www.spaintour.come-mail: [email protected]. MoscowSpanish Tourist OfficeTverskaya - 16/2 6th floor

    Moscow 125009z 7495/ 935 83 99) 7495/ 935 83 96www.tourspain.rue-mail: [email protected]. SingaporeSpanish Tourist Office541 Orchard Road.Liat Tower# 09-04238881 Singaporez 65/67 37 30 08,) 65/67 37 31 73e-mail: [email protected] KINGDOM. LondonSpanish Tourist Office2nd floor, 79 Cavendish StreetLondon W1A 6XBz 44207/ 486 80 77) 44207/ 486 80 34www.tourspain.co.uke-mail: [email protected]

    (State-run hotels)Central booking office:C/ Requena, 3. 28013-Madridz91 516 66 66Fax 91 516 66 57www.parador.es

    Benicarl ParadorAvda. Papa Luna, 5z964 47 01 00Fax 964 47 09 34

    SPANISH TOURIST OFFICES ABROAD

    Los AngelesTourist Office of Spain 8383Wilshire Blvd, Suite 960Beverly HillsCalifornia 90211z 1323/ 658 71 95) 1312/ 658 10 61www.okspain.orge-mail: [email protected]

    Tourist Office of SpainWater Tower Place, Suite 915 East845, North Michigan AvenueChicago, Illinois 60-611z 1312/ 642 19 92Fax: 1312/ 642 98 17www.okspain.org

    e-mail: [email protected] Office of Spain1395 Brickell AvenueMiami, Florida 33131z 1305/ 358 19 92) 1305/ 358 82 23e-mail: [email protected] York

    Tourist Office of Spain666 Fifth Avenue 35th floor.New York, New Yorkz 1212/ 265 88 22) 1212/ 265 88 64www.okspain.orge-mail: [email protected]

    CanadaNuez de Balboa, 35 - 3z 914 233 250.) 914 233 251JapanSerrano, 109z 915 907 600) 915 901 321Republic of IrelandClaudio Coello, 73z 915 763 500) 914 351 677

    RussiaVelazquez, 155z 915 622 264.) 915 629 712United KingdomFernando El Santo, 16z 913 190 200.) 913 081 033United States of AmericaSerrano, 75z 915 872 200.) 915 872 303

    UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

    EMBASSIES IN MADRID

    TARRAGONA 53 kmALCAIZ 35 km

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    Cabo Oropesa

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    N-340

    N-232

    AP-7

    N-340

    AP-7

    N-234

    A-23

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    EL ALTO PALANCIA

    VALENCIA 23 km

    TARRAGONA 53 km

    TERUEL36km

    ALCAIZ 35 km

    CARTOGRAFA: GCAR, S.L.Cardenal Silceo, 35Tel. 914 167 341 - 28002 MADRID - AO 2004

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    30 Km.150

    N

    V A L E N C I AL E N C I A

    T E R U E LE R U E L

    T A R R A G O N AR R A G O N AHighwayDual carriageway

    National road

    A road

    B Road

    Local Road

    Railway

    Parador (State-run hotel)Shrine-Monastery

    Caves

    Nature Reserve

    Marina

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    Golf course

    Spa