8/7/2019 24 Hours: Barcelona

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GEORGE ORWELL OBSERVED

in his 1938 memoir of the

Spanish Civil War, Homage to

Catalonia, Barcelona is constantly evolving.

Architects and urbanists still admire Cerdà’s

forward-thinking urban design and the

 Modernista architecture of Antoni Gaudí,

style-setters who reached their apogee at the

turn of the 20th century. And three decades

after the 1975 death of dictator General

FranciscoFranco, a new generation of artists,

filmmakers, fashion designers, architects

and chefs is making waves in the birthplace

of the surrealist movement – most notably

Europe’s hottest culinary genius Ferran Adrià(“the Salvador Dalí of the kitchen”).

While many mistake Barcelona for the

epitome of all things Spanish, the Catalan

capital is, in fact, influenced far more by the

Mediterranean than Madrid. Unlike their

extroverted Castilian cousins, most Catalans

prefer a good book to a bullfight. Yet sedate

it is not. Barcelona’s boutiques and bars

are constantly breaking the style barrier.

And since hosting the 1992 Olympics, the

design-centric city has become even more

cosmopolitan, its seedier barrios transformed

into swank districts with hip galleries,boutique hotels and eateries straight out of 

Wallpaper magazine.

One part bourgeois and one part bohème,

Barcelona has always been the Spanish city

most open to outside influences, thanks to

its seafaring history and proximity to France.

Given this geography, and the character-

istically Catalan balance between seny 

(common sense) and rauxa (creative chaos),

it comes as no surprise that the city has

witnessed several belle époques throughout its

history. Today, creative chaos still finds its

way into all aspects of local life, but particu-larly the kitchen, where the Catalans take

their gastronomy very seriously. A typical

barcelonés breakfast might consist of a mid-

morning cortado (espresso with a dash of 

milk) and chocolate croissant, followed by

a leisurely sit-down lunch between 2 and

3 p.m. Tapas are customary after 5, but don’t

even think about dinner before 9 p.m.

(Barcelona offers some of Europe’s best

nightlife). Suddenly, the siesta seems

perfectly civilized.

 – Jennifer Patterson

10 W E S T W O R L D • W I N T E R 2 0 0 6 Jennifer Patterson

24hours:Barcelona

The Go Spots■ La Boqueria market Famous for its stalls stacked

perilously with fresh produce and seafood and

delicatessens dangling cured jamón serrano . Don’t miss

a three-o’clock lunch (you’re on Spanish time) and cup

of cava at Pinotxo Bar, where Juanito (pictured) serves

up Catalan cuisine – tender calamari, anchovy filets or

delicate cheese croquetas – made from the market’s

freshest ingredients. 93 317 1731

■ The hip El Born, El Raval andBarri Gòtic districts for

funky Barcelona furnishings and one-of-a-kind local

designer fashions.

■ A special “Picasso and the Circus” exhibitcommemorating the 125th anniversary of the artist’s

birth runs to February 18, 2007, at Museu Picasso.

93 319 6310; www.museupicasso.bcn.es 

■ Pedal past La Sagrada Família, Casa Batlló andLa

Pedrera along the grand boulevards of Passeig de Gràcia

or Carrer de la Marina, courtesy B&B Bike Rentals.

93 295 5546; www.bnb-bikes.com 

■ For panoramic views of the city: the cable car strung

from La Barceloneta to Montjuïc (“Jewish Mountain”)

stops near Fundació Joan Miró, the finest collection of

works by the legendary Catalan artist.

Trendy Vittles■ Euskal Etxea Classic Basque pintxos (tapas) – best

appreciated with a glass of txakolí (the Basque version

of vinho verde). 93 310 2185 

■ commerç24Patrons reserve at least a day in advance

for new-wave chef (and Ferran Adrià alumnus) Carles

Abellan’s resto (93 319 2102) . Time-saver: Abellan’s

new tapaç24. 93 488 0977 

■ SalamancaA favoured local restaurant in the former

fishermen’s neighbourhood of La Barceloneta. Prime

pick: seafood paella for two. 93 221 5033 

Best Crash Zones■

Hostal Palacios Elegant, aristocratic suites withfloor-to-ceiling vistas of one of the city’s swankiest

boulevards. From $115. 93 301 3079; 

www.hostalpalacios.com 

■Nisia Bed & Breakfast The next best thing to living

in Barcelona. Close to Gràcia’s great restos, indie cine-

mas and Gaudí’s surreal Parque Güell. From $78.

93 415 3960; www.nisiabcn.com 

insider’s guide        ▼

    ▼

Insider Travel      I

10-night Mediterranean cruise: from $1,739, with a stop in 

Barcelona. bcaa.com/barcelona or your nearest 

BCAA sales centre (see page 74).

Thego-to city guide – when you’ve barely gota weekend

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